Beyond the basics: two distillers share expert tips on identifying exceptional Australian whisky

If you’re a regular Halliday reader, by now you’re probably familiar with what separates exceptional wine from mediocre wine, and know how to find the best drops to suit your taste in a bottle shop. However, when it comes to spirits – it's a whole different ball game.

With the help of two experts from Callington Mill Distillery and Furneaux Distillery, we go beyond the basics of what whisky is, and discover what separates the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. Because, as Furneaux's Tom Ambroz says, "It’s hard to know just by looking at a bottle what it will taste like."

Below, we look at what goes into making an exceptional whisky, and share top tips on what to look out for when buying it in Australia.

Callington Mill Distillery

John Ibrahim, founder and owner of Callington Mill Distillery, says: Exceptional whiskies are crafted with unwavering commitment to quality at every stage – sourcing the finest raw ingredients, precision in milling, mashing, fermenting, distilling, thoughtful maturation and a passion for the craft itself.

At Callington Mill Distillery, these principles are at the core of our production. Our whiskies are crafted using locally grown, non-GMO Planet barley, celebrated for its flavour intensity. Our unique seven-day fermentation process uses lager yeast, resulting in a spirit with exceptional aromatic depth. Maturation takes place in freshly decanted, first-fill sherry and port casks, preserving the whisky's natural colour and rich profile. Additionally, we are the only distillery we know of using amphorae for post-maturation refinement, offering a smooth, balanced finish that sets our whiskies apart.

H. What are the main things to look out for when you want to buy a top-tier bottle of whisky?
JI. Ingredients and process: Look for transparency about the grain source, fermentation process and maturation techniques. High-quality producers proudly share details about their ingredients and methods.
Maturation details: Opt for whiskies matured in first-fill casks, as they impart richer and more complex flavours compared to casks that have been reused multiple times.
Non-chill filtration: Preserving natural oils enhances mouthfeel and flavour – seek out whiskies labeled as 'non-chill filtered' for a more authentic experience.
Natural colour: Premium whiskies avoid artificial colouring, allowing the cask to naturally influence the spirit's hue.
Full-term maturation: Be cautious of whiskies merely 'finished' in a particular cask for a short period. A whisky fully matured in sherry casks throughout its ageing process offers a far deeper and more layered profile than one that was only finished in sherry casks for a few months or a year.

At Callington Mill Distillery, we uphold these principles. Our whiskies are non-chill filtered, naturally coloured and matured exclusively in first-fill sherry and port casks for their entire ageing process. This dedication to full-term maturation results in robust, nuanced profiles that truly showcase the quality and craftsmanship of Tasmanian single malt whisky.

Whisky to try: Callington Mill Pedro Ximinez Single Malt Whisky

Rich golden brown in colour. Honeycomb, caramel, vanilla and sweet plum aromas evolve first in the glass and give way to delicious toffee and toasted oak. The palate is soft and smooth with an oily mouthfeel. It boasts flavours of toffee, chocolate, cinnamon, fig jam, Asian spices and delicate charred oak that are fantastically balanced and sit deep on the tongue. The finish on this is sweet and delicious with Biscoff, fig and delicate toasted nuts.

H. How was this whisky made and what makes it so special? 
JI. This whisky is matured full-term in freshly decanted, first-fill Pedro Ximénez casks from Jerez, Spain. The result is a deep, complex profile, featuring notes of cinnamon, almond, dark chocolate and dried fruits.

The use of freshly emptied casks ensures the spirit absorbs maximum flavour, and the non-chill filtration process retains the whisky’s full, rich mouthfeel. Combined with our slow fermentation using lager yeast and meticulous craftsmanship, this whisky is a prime example of why Callington Mill is at the forefront of the new era of Tasmanian whisky, and was recently awarded Single Malt Whisky of the Year at the London Spirits Competition 2025.

RRP: $149 | callingtonmilldistillery.com | Shop this whisky

Furneaux Distillery

Tom Ambroz, Distiller at Furneaux Distillery, says: I think that balance is the key to exceptional whisky, and this all comes down to the people tasting the mature spirit. There are some key foundations for a good whisky: the quality of the grain, the fermentation process and the decisions of the distiller during the distillation process for which part of the spirit to use, or where to 'make the cut'.

There is also barrel selection when choosing the type, origin and age of barrel to mature in. However, in my experience, the most important decision when you are tasting the aged whisky is whether it is perfect as is or needs additional time, or liquid management, breathing, blending etc. An exceptional whisky can be soft and delicate or big and punchy; I like both, but they have to be balanced.

H. What makes Australian whisky so unique, and what do you hope to see when looking to the future of whisky in Australia?
TA. I think we have access to really good quality malt barley in Australia, producing around 30 per cent of the world’s supply. This, combined with Australian distillers being more open to experimentation with yeast and fermentation times, can carry great flavour through to the spirit. The vast majority of Australian distilleries are also small, craft distillers who are working so closely with their product, it lends itself to a really varied market.

Scotland is so well known for its whisky producing regions, and the differences those regions can impart to the spirit and style of whisky made therein. Australia is a vast country with such a range of climates, soils, landscapes and techniques, so I could see us developing our own proud denomination of origin like Bourgogne wines, or Spanish sherries. The whiskies of different regions around Australia could come to be known internationally for their quality, terroir and pride of the producers.

Whisky to try: Furneaux Distillery Flinders Island Peated Double Oak

Charred lemon on the nose, opening richer with raspberry lolly and spice. It’s a flavour bomb on the palate, with orchard fruits, wafts of barbecue smoke, golden syrup and ANZAC biscuits. The sweetness carries through the finish with a salty, smoky note developing nicely.

H. How was this whisky made and what makes it so special? 
TA. This is one of the most unique whiskies in the world. Peated whisky (where the barley is smoked with peat before fermentation) made with local ingredients is rare in Australia. We forage our peat from coastal lagoons where it spends most of the year submerged in saltwater. Comprising native vegetation, it has a flavour that is earthy, briny and aromatic.

We smoke our barley with this peat, and focus on maximum flavour and texture during fermentation and distillation. The spirit for this whisky was aged in 50-year-old Seppeltsfield Apera (sherry) barrels and ex–Maker's Mark bourbon oak barrels for four years. It is big, bright and spicy with a rounded orchard fruit palate and a broad but gentle smokiness on the finish.

RRP: $220 | furneauxdistillery.com.au | Shop this whisky

Top image credit: Furneaux Distillery