Three of Australia’s top chardonnay producers, from three of the country’s best regions for the variety, have just released (or are just about to) their flagship wines.
In April, Beechworth’s Savaterre will release its eponymous chardonnay from the 2023 vintage; a year winemaker Keppell Smith says “was actually reasonably difficult, with plenty of rain and quite cold.” But despite tougher growing conditions, the resulting wine is beautiful.
“It's the years when we walk a tightrope that tend to either fail spectacularly or soar to great heights,” says Keppell.
The Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay is consistently rated in the high 90s.
The Art Series from Margaret River winery Leeuwin Estate is arguably one of the most anticipated chardonnay releases of the year – particularly for collectors, thanks to the wine’s exceptional capability for ageing (it should be a crime to drink one younger than five years). The 2022 (a vintage winemaker Tim Lovett described as “epic”) shows the same power, purity and finesse as previous years’ expressions, with its trademark acidity and structure borne from 11 months in new oak front and centre.
Lastly, Tapanappa in the Adelaide Hills has released its 2024 Tiers Vineyard 1.5m Chardonnay – made from a block of high-density plantings (1.5 metres apart) within the Tiers Vineyard – alongside its 2024 Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay and 2024 Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay. Although it was slightly warmer than average, winemaker Brian Croser says “2024 was a model vintage,” which has translated into all three wines.
For more information on each of these wines, check out their tasting notes below.
Jeni Port's Savaterre Chardonnay 2023 tasting note
A double wow kind of chardonnay, such is the level of deep concentration and the purity of flavour and delivery. Shows a sophisticated side, complex in construction and taste, led by white peach, nectarine, grapefruit pith and peel, spice and a savoury almond influence that lifts both aromatically and flavour-wise. Walks, as ever, a fine line between generosity and fineness, the latter winning the day with some scintillating tangy acid drive in place. And the best part? This still has a long, long journey ahead. – Jeni Port, 97 points
RRP $120 | Drink to 2035
Mike Bennie's Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay 2024 tasting note
From the first Croser vineyard, planted '79. A potent and rich chardonnay of distinguished power and presence. It's set at a riper pace but feels supremely balanced and delivers emphatic notions of quality. Rich pear notes, dried and fresh, honeyed cashew, cinnamon toast, a touch of flinty minerality and red apple juiciness and a bit of crunch from that, too. Quite palate staining with its swish of sweet, liquified brown spice. A generous wine done with aplomb. – Mike Bennie, 95 points
RRP $110 | Drink to 2035
Mike Bennie's Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard 1.5M Chardonnay 2024 tasting note
Fruit is picked from a close-planted block that was planted in '03. This is wonderful chardonnay – all finesse, tension, filigreed minerality, light, savoury undertones and pristine, bright green pear, nectarine and pink grapefruit freshness. Touches of nougat, sea spray and green almond in the mesh of characters here. A suggestion of flint and wet slate lend credence and complexity, too. Very precise and energetic, and extends long in flavour and persistence of minerality. Class act. – Mike Bennie, 96 points
RRP $90 | Drink to 2035
Mike Bennie's Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2024 tasting note
Quite a bold and brassy chardonnay defined with spicy, cedary oak over peach and nectarine, red apple, grapefruit and banana notes, with touches of toffee apple in there, too. The richness feels apt and balanced, though one could suggest that this needs time to unfurl and soften with cellaring to see it more settled and reaching a further potential. For now, a big impact chardonnay, which many will line up for in its style. – Mike Bennie, 93 points
RRP $60 | Drink to 2033
Jane Faulkner's Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2022 tasting note
If you were sitting quietly in a corner, contemplating the vicissitudes of life, and a glass of this exceptional chardonnay came your way, well, all would be very well indeed. And you’d perk up. It’s a wine that tends to be scintillating in youth, driven by all manner of citrus flavours – lemon, pink grapefruit with a dash of lime but also a mille-feuille of leesy lusciousness, oak spices and a moreish savouriness. It seems powerful and explosive with its acidity, drive and energy yet manages to remain classy and complex. – Jane Faulkner, 97 points
RRP $159 | Drink to 2032
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